“Tuppence”

Back at the start of July a small team of us headed down to Anstey’s Cove for the weekend. Matt had his eye on “The Cider Soak” F8a and I was going to have a look at “Tuppence” F8B. We got down there and the conditions were far from perfect, being that we were in the month of July I suppose you could kind expect it to be slightly warm! But that didn’t faze us. After warming up I set off putting the draws in Tuppence, which surprisingly went quite well. All the moves went really quick and I felt pretty confident that it could go this weekend. “I couldn’t have been so wrong”. After having about 14 red-points that weekend of which 12 of them I dropped the last move, I walked away very tired and empty-handed. I made a promise to myself that I would come back later in the year as soon as we got some better conditions.

Making shapes whilst cleaning holds on a hot sweaty day!

Making shapes whilst cleaning holds on a hot sweaty day!

Saturday, the day of the “Climbing Festival” was finally here. After a heavy weekend in Northumberland for Matt’s stag do and a full weeks worth of route setting the day had come, finally I could relax. The weather was amazing, cold and sunny, but surprisingly the it was a rather good turn out all things considering. The comp went well with the usual suspects taking the gold. Gav Symonds was down and mentioned that he was heading down to Anstey’s cove for a day on Tuesday, my day off’. “Perfect I’m in”.

After a couple of days rest I was feeling recovered, We got down to Anstey’s about 11:30am. After warming up on the classic arête “Might and Main” F6c I went bolt to bolt putting the draws in and reminding myself of the moves on Tuppence. With it being a bit later in the year the sun is a lot lower in the sky, this proved to be a bit of an issue putting the draws in. As my skin was quite thin anyway due a full weeks worth of route setting and the sun was directly on the route I could barely pull the crux. I pushed on and got the rest of the draws in, It wasn’t looking so hopeful. After belaying Max on Avenged and a quick jog back to the van to grab some liquid chalk, conditions had got better. The sun had gone and the wind had picked up. I tied on for my first red-point of the day. I climbed well, pulled through the crux where I started to feel a good flash pump coming on and then dropped it on the red-point crux. That final last move, I kind of expected to fall on that 1st go.

 

Crux sequence

Crux sequence

 

Crux sequence

Crux sequence

 

Crux sequence

Crux sequence

After belaying Max on a red-point of Avenged which he managed to link in two. I was still trying to recover from the flash pump I got on my first red-point attempt when it started to rain. I left it a couple of minutes hopping it would pass, It didn’t. Instead it got heavier and heavier. The majority of the route stays dry but the sloppey top out at the top was getting soaked. The time had come, I was still pumped from my last go but if I didn’t go now the top would be unclimbable. The start felt fine and a got through the crux feeling pretty strong, I pushed on and latched the move that I had fallen off about 15 times previously. Theres a couple of good holds just after that which I used to try and recover a bit, I didn’t want to blow the top. After a minute or so I tried to pull the lip, the hold I had been previously using was unholdable, my hand just slipt straight off of it. I had to rethink, there was a “crosslely” kind of hold back from the lip I ended up using. I pulled on that to gain a crimp that I had ticked but hadn’t used before that was sheltered from the rain, from there I could reach the chains. Get in!!! After getting wet stripping the draws out we rushed back to Empire wall for Max to do battle with Avenged. We walked around the corner to find that the run off was half way down the wall, but Max was still psyched. He climbed solidly up until the crux where he came up short on a big move, following that he had 6 or 7 goes trying to do the move before he succumbed to using a clip stick for the first time.

While Max and I had been busy getting wet Charlie and Gav had been making good progress on Poppy and they were staying dry. But it didn’t last much longer, after a while the run off had limited them to only climbing about 5 moves half way up the route.

Heres a few snaps I got just before it started raining.

Gav working Poppy

Gav working Poppy

Gav working Poppy

Gav working Poppy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Archie

Archie

 

Charlie working Poppy

Charlie working Poppy

Charlie working Poppy

Charlie working Poppy

 

 

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