Taming the Lion “E6 6c”

Taming the Lion “E6 6c”

With the south side of Cheddar still closed and having done most of the sport routes that I want to do on the north side I felt it was time for a little change. I have always vowed never to do trad in Cheddar just because I know how many holds come off on any one route but I thought I would make an exception this time.  On Wednesday 10th I headed out to Cheddar after work with Al. We abseiled down the line checked the gear then set up a top rope. I worked out the bottom section really quick but it took a couple tries on the crux section to work that out. After both of us had had a go Al went back to try and figure out the crux. 20 minutes later he still hadn’t really worked out a sequence that worked for him so he lowered off declaring him self too short. I tied in with the intention of doing it clean. I climbed the start well and arrived the crux feeling pretty fresh, as I started through the crux my foot popped at that was me off. I lowered down, had a bit of a rest, and tried again. This time I got to the crux feeling tired and dropped it part the way through. As I hadn’t done it clean and I was feeling pretty tired I didn’t go for the lead and excepted defeat. So we pack up and headed to the Crown.

Al top roping “Taming the Lion”

With the rest of the weeks work out the way Heather and I headed out to Split rock on Saturday morning to meet Matt and Steve. When we arrived the boys had just started to kit up when Steve announced he had forgotten his harness. After 10 minutes of searching google and ringing around climbing shops Matt and Steve left in search of a shop. While they were gone I warmed up on “Rustic Wall” E3 5c. last time I was at Split rock I did the direct finish so this time I followed the original line. Apart from it being super humid and a little dirty it was good. Heather followed in good style with only taking a couple rests. By the time I got down the humidity levels had gone through the roof but stubborn me wasn’t going to let that get in the way. We had come all this way, I wasn’t leaving after having only climbed 1 route so I set off on “Red Rag to a Bull” E5 6B. 50 minutes later after using a whole chalk bags worth of chalk I topped out. It was so unbelievably greasy, It was like climbing in a foreign country. Because of the humidity the lower red dusty wall had turned to paste which stuck to my shoes, this made the top slab which was very thin and quite run out anyway feel desperate. I ab’d off and stripped the gear out, when I got down I announced to Heath I was done so we packed up and made our way out. We had just got back to the van when Matt and Steve arrived back. We told them it was way too humid and we were off. After driving pretty much to Bristol and back again they weren’t going to be defeated that easy and carried on to the crag. We got in the van and made our way to Cheddar in search of some cooler temps. When we arrived it wasn’t much different, Al and Aoife were up on the Remnant so we headed up there. Aoifa was working “Skullduggery” F7b And Al was pondering getting on “Bristol Weed” F8a+. As it looked like we were staying at the Remnant I put my boots on and tried Chris Savage’s link of the “The Wrist Business” F7c+ into “Homegrown” F8a+ which is called “Just say no” F8a. After dropping it half way due to a bit of flash pump I finished putting the draws in and lowered down. I had a quick rest and sent it next go. I belayed Al on Bristol Weed for 30 mins or so, he managed to sort a sequence out so came down for a good rest. While he was resting we ent down to Lion rock so I could have another go on Taming the Lion. I set a top rope up and had another burn. Once again I got to the crux and fell off. After a bit of a rest I had another go and fell again at the crux. I admitted defeat and excepted I might be a little tired. Al had another burn but didn’t quite make it So we headed to the Crown where you could almost call us locals now.

After a good nights sleep we were back in Cheddar. This time I was roasting but at least it wasn’t humid. I had a bit of a lazy morning just hanging out and watching  Heath and Aoife on Skullduggery. after a couple of hours of pondering what to do about Taming the Lion I decided to just lead it. Maybe it was just a top roping metal block or it is just quite hard, either way the crux is well protected so I went for it.  I was a little nervous when I started but after a couple of moves I relaxed. I had a little trouble fiddling a wire in to back the thread up and then moved into the roof.

Pulling through the roof of the 1st crux

Pulling through the roof of the 1st crux

The first crux felt easy, I pulled the lip and clipped a poor peg. After a bit of a shake out I pushed on and clipped the bolt that protects the crux. I felt pretty good at this point, one more move and I had stuck the crux, only just. I wasn’t quite over I just had to keep it together for 3 more moves. I hit the next hold and then turnt it to and undercut, even though there was one more hard move I knew I was in. I did that and then ran it out to the top. GET IN!

On the shake out before the crux

On the shake out before the crux

Crux move

Crux move

Topping out

Topping out

Seeing as I’ve been mixing it up with a bit of sport and trad I though I would go the whole hog and organise a bouldering trip to Magic Wood, Switzerland for a week over the Bank Holiday. So I’m sure there be a few stories to tell when I get back.

Over and Out…..

ps Thanks to little Pete (Derrett) for the photos.

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4 Responses to “Taming the Lion “E6 6c””

  1. Lil' Pete August 25, 2011 2:33 am #

    Oi, where did you get those wonderful photographs? :p

    • westyb3 August 31, 2011 2:55 pm #

      haha sorry mate when I was driving to Switzerland I realised that I didn’t credit you for the pics. consider it done now.

      • Lil' Pete September 7, 2011 6:51 pm #

        Ha, cheers!

        That photo that you took of Heath’ holding up her hands, out of the dark, is amazing!

        • westyb3 September 7, 2011 9:19 pm #

          Yeah I was pretty chuffed with it. 😀

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