Sunny South Wales

The weekend before last Heath and I made a flying visit over to South Wales in hope of finding some dry rock. We headed to Dinas Rock which is situated between Merthyr tydfil and Neath, just outside a small town called Glynneath. I had been there before a couple of years ago on a route trip. This time we headed over for the bouldering,. You can find topo’s for the different sectors Here

The crag tracks along side the river Mellte. It’s very popular with Dog walkers, Gorge scramblers and obviously Climbers. The first main section of bouldering you reach is called Kannelgarth. With grades ranging from font 5 to 8a+ there’s something for everyone.

Heath sending Shark Attack 6a+

Heath sending Shark Attack 6a+

Even though the sun was shining unfortunately some problems were pretty wet due to the heavy rain full the day before and plus South Wales had got a dusting of snow the night before. That didn’t stop us though, we continued to warm up ticking off problems like Monkey Magic 6c, Gentle Jess sit 7a, and The Mongrel Mob 7b. Once everyone was warmed up and the guns were firing we moved on up to the Main crag. This requires a little scramble up between the rocks of a small waterfall.

It was time for the main event. There were a couple of 7c’s I had my eye Boy racer and Jet blue. Both have the same start with alternative finishes. Boy racer went on something like my 3/4th go and Jet Blue took a couple more. I think Jet blue was slightly harder but was the better line in my opinion.

After doing the standers I had a quick look at the 8a+ sitter Butch Cassidy / Jed Black. The starting undercut pocket was gopping, so didn’t spend long on that. Liam and I had a bit of a play on a new line to the left. It was pretty cool, Super burly. I think Il have to come back considerably stronger if it’s got any chance of going.

Before moving back down to the lower sector I finished off with a problem called Awesome Shed 7b+. It has this great move at the start which is this massive roll from a side pull over the lip. I did both the original and the direct finish.

During the time we were up at the main crag, the sun had got to work and dried a fair amount of rock off on Kennelgarth. With a slight bit of help from to tissue stopping the water running on to a crucial crimp we managed to do Life of Fythe. It’s given 7c but I think it’s more like 7b/+ but well worth doing. Unfortunately Fat Cat 7c was still wet so I tuned my attention to an unrepeated 8a+ called The Carpenters Apprentice. It shares the same start as fat Cat but breaks right at the lip to a heinous crux. I couldn’t try the start as it was wet but after a bit of work I managed to do the crux. I’m super psyched to get back there once it dry’s out.

Meanwhile Heath was getting amongst it in the roof.

I’m definitely keen to go back to Dinas, hopefully a little stronger from our  up and coming 2 week trip to Switzerland. We leave on Wednesday to go and sample some of the classic problems of Chironico, Brione and Cresciano.




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