A38

You always find around this time of year it can be quite difficult to get out and do what you want to do. It’s either really hot or wet and most of the time it’s both of those things put together. With half of cheddar closed and it being a bit too warm for most local sport venues, a bit of local trad seemed like the right thing to do. About 6 months ago Matt had gone on a little mission with Tom Harrison to clean up and try one of Tom’s dad’s routes A38, E6 6b. They abseiled down the line and gave it a bit of a clean as it hadn’t seen any action in a good few years. After a bit of a top rope session they had figured out a sequence and a few of the gear placements. Matt had got it clean on a top rope but wasn’t quite ready to lead it. I met both of them later that day in the pub. They were both covered in mud and there was a strange smell of fox poo lingering around them. They were both pretty psyched to go back soon. 6 months have passed and they still havent been back. Going on how much they had raved about it that night in the pub and knowing they hadn’t been back I mentioned it to Matt yesterday. He seemed keen so we met in the morning and headed over there. Goram’s chair is bassed in Trym Vally Gorge, in the past has been notoriously hard to find. If I remember rightly It took 3 visits to just to find the crag. This time it was fine, once you know where it is it’s actually quite easy. After a quick abseil inspection we set up a top rope. Matt headed up first to try a remember a sequence. After a bit of huffing a puffing and flash pump of doom he made it to the top. As he lowered down he check out the gear and left it in place for me. I tied on started my way up. I got through the bottom section ok, at about half way there’s a couple of crux moves. I managed to get through them and get to a bomber hand jam. After that there’s a few sustained moves that lead to better holds at the top. I was a bit pumped when I got to the top but it definitely felt doable. On the way down I striped the gear out so we could have a second go on top rope placing the gear. That seemed to go ok for both of us. When I got down Matt asked me what do I want to do? I told him I was ready. So after a nervous wee Matt pulled the rope and racked up. Matt climbed the bottom section well, you could tell he was a little bit nervous but he kept his composure. He got to the crux and went through it with ease. After getting a bomber rock 5 in he knew all he had to do was keep his cool, and that he did. He toped out with a relieved “Wahooo”. After a little celebration he lowered down and striped the gear out. Once he was down I pulled the rope and he handed me the gear. I was feeling a little apprehensive just because I havent done any trad recently, but I knew the gear was good and the climbing felt ok. The lower section seemed to fly by and before I knew I was through the crux and at the rest. I had a little trouble fiddling in a wire just after the crux but I was on good holds. I pushed on, sank the bomber rock 5 and toped out.

The two of us after a successful ascent of A38 E6 6b

The two of us after a successful ascent of A38 E6 6b

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