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Spring has finally Sprung

Now that Spring is here and the weather is finally picking up, a few of us decided to take advantage of the sunshine and headed down South to Hartland Quay to see what it had to offer.

As Hartland is a tidal venue  you ideally want an afternoon low tide, a bit of wind and some sunshine.  We were quite fortunate and got all 3. When we arrived at the ‘Carnage’ wall it was rather wet, but after a bit of drying with Cailean’s micro-fibre tower and a lot chalk it wasn’t long before the problems started to become climbable.  (Thanks Tom for the heads up on the towel).  Apparently a sponge works well too ;).  After a brief warm up ‘Carnage’ was the first to go down with an on-sight for me and a flash for Cailean and Steve wasn’t far behind.

Steve firing up the cannons on Carnage 7b

Steve firing up the cannons on Carnage (7b)

Next we moved onto ‘Corridors of Power’, which starts up ‘Supercede’ (just to the right) and finishes up ‘Carnage’.  This was a meaty 7c and took a few goes to get this.  Whether we had the right beta or not, i’m not sure, but there was this amazing compression move, very fun. Mikey Cleverdon joined us at this stage and after a bit of Thera-banding and a couple of moves on ‘Carnage’ he showed us how it was done with an awesome retro flash of ‘Corridors’.   A quick re-shuffle of the pads and we were onto the main event, ‘Supercede’ 8a.  The rock has little friction and is so smooth which makes holding onto a good hold quite hard and holding onto a poor hold bloody desperate.  On ‘Supercede’ I ended up having to do this really cool sequence where you move from a slopy left hand crimp to a right hand side pull, then to kill the barndoor drop into a left hand side pull.

Killing the swing on Supercede

Killing the swing on Supercede

It wasn’t too long until I managed the stand start, which goes at 7c+, but unfortunately I couldn’t link the sitter.  Really cool bloc though, so not too bummed about going back.

Supercede stand 7c+

Supercede stand (7c+)

We headed South round the corner onto the next beach to the ‘Rhino’ boulder which was a cool looking bloc with 3 or so problems on it.  Hannah managed to send the 6b groove after a bit of work, while Cailean decided to send everything in his trainers including ‘Total Power’ 7a & ‘Braunton Wanders’ 7b.

Steve - Total Power 7a

Steve – Total Power (7a)

The tide was upon us so we made a final quick dash across the beach to possibly one of the best lines I’ve come across in the South West, “The End is Nigh” 8a.  It climbs straight through the middle of this 50 degree wall. As we didn’t have long we got straight down to business.  I pulled on and instantly felt the steepness of this thing, which also showed me how tired I was feeling.  After a couple of goes I got through the first crux, but then fell on the upper crux.  Mikey then once again showed us just how strong he is and for the 2nd time today got another retro flash.  Seeing Mikey do the bloc gave me the crucial beta for the second crux, and a couple of goes later I got the send.

 

The End is nigh 8a

The End is Nigh (8a)

 

The End is nigh 8a

The End is Nigh (8a)

All in all it was a great day out and got me psyched again.  With just over a month until Grindelwald Boulder World Cup, it will be back on the training for a little bit now.

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