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Log Dragomer

Its been just over 7 years since I competed internationally. Birmingham 2005 was the last World Cup I competed in, in which I came 18th. I have to admit I have missed it, the feeling of stepping out for your first problem. All the emotions and nerves that rush around your body, the overwhelming sensation of excitement in the pit of your stomach.

Jacky Godoffe was head setter for Log Dragomer and in true Jacky fashion he delivered a wide range of technical genius throughout the comp.

Bloc 1 was a “balancy” hop onto a volume. These sort of problems have a tendency to rack up lots of goes. possibly the worst style of bloc to come out to when the nerves are at their highest. Unfortunately I didn’t really get off the ground on this one.

 

Bloc 2 was a groove with a pretty spicy first move. After a couple of goes I managed to get established in the groove. but towards the top I got my hand sequence mixed up and fell on the last move.

 

Bloc 3 should have gone 1st go. You pulled through a roof, mantled a triangle stood up to finish on quite a poor hold. I dropped the finishing move on my 1st attempt and sent it 2nd go.

 

Bloc 4 was nails. It climbed a slightly overhanging wall on very poor grips. My high point was the move to the bonus.

Bloc 5. This one should have gone. It took me a few goes to reach the bonus from there you smashed up to a really bad “slopey” pinch, came into a small intermediate screw on then popped for the finish. Struggling to hold the pinch I laid one on for the finish but didn’t managed to hold it.

 

And that was it! Time was up. As I was 2nd reserve I was convinced I wasn’t going to be doing any internationals this year. So I had turned my focus to outdoors and not really stayed comp fit. So considering I only had a week & 1/2’s  notice and I haven’t been training as hard I was quite pleased with the way I climbed. I didn’t feel too far off the mark. If I would have done the 2 problems I got really close to I would have stood a good chance of making semi’s.

As for the rest of the comp, great effort to Dave who made semi’s and just missed out on finals finishing up in 8th. Also a big well done to both Leah and Mina for reaching semi’s and finishing in 17th (Leah) & 14th (Mina) and finally Shauna for once again showing us what a world-class athlete she is making podium in 3rd place.

As I didn’t make it through to semi’s this time, I managed to blag a press pass, which meant I could get as close to the action as you could get. Here’s a few images that hopefully capture what an amazing final it was.

 

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